![]() I already installed a new BMW sensor with no change in behavior, my next step is to change the ET and cap to the genuine BMW pieces and see if that works. ![]() In my case I used a Mahle-Behr replacement expansion tank and cap and I'm starting to think markusmarkus may be right to advise the use of only genuine BMW cooling system parts. I don't think Canada's bubble theory is the cause - I've never had any problems bleeding this or other BMW systems. Thanks BaliDawg for the informative expansion tank and sensor pictures - one question remains unanswered, however - "what does this slider box do?" If anyone can answer this question then please do! When cold the visual indicator shows normal coolant level. The repair cost of a faulty intake manifold gasket can range from 200 to around 600. But averagely, it will cost you around 130 to 230 to replace the reservoir. If your unsure if its blown or not change it anyway. The price of repairing or replacing the coolant reservoir varies based on the mechanic fee and the kind of car you drive. When these blow they cause the light to come on. After replacing the cooling system components and several thorough bleeding sessions my low coolant light illuminates consistently after around 15 minutes of driving but then cycles off and on every few minutes. As for coolant light there is a maxi fuse on the positive terminal of the battery. The only difference is that, prior to my cooling system overhaul, I had no leaks, lights or unusual cooling system behavior - my overhaul was purely for unknown history and preventative maintenance reasons. I have a similar situation to the OP here. Does anybody have any advice on what may be occurring ? I’m thinking an air bubble is being super shitty with me, but like I said I’ve bled the car multiple times. I’ve bled the car multiple times and I’ve checked the expansion tank multiple times and the levels have been correct. Still to this day, I have the coolant light coming on every single time I drive the car. I filled it up with a 50/50 mix of BMW blue coolant & distilled water, and bled the system multiple times until no air was coming out of the constant flow of coolant from the bleeder screw. I replaced everything in the cooling system including radiator, water pump, water pump pulley, thermostat, coolant hoses, expansion tank, and coolant level sensor. Of course, it is highly possible that the illuminated light is indeed correct and that your coolant level is not where it should be. Some of the parts on the car were not from factory when I did the work, so I assume the previous owner did some cooling system maintenance work aswell. So I did a cooling system overhaul, at 170 000km. Last year, I was having some issues loosing coolant and my coolant light was coming on. I do all of my own maintenance on my 330ci. Alright, so let me start this off by saying I’m pretty mechanically inclined.
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